IMPORTANT: If you want to stay in Ronda to experience the feria and all it has to offer then don’t delay in booking your hotel. Use the booking form to the right as soon as possible! Places will already be limited!
Every year, usually on the Sunday morning following the big Corrida, the Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda and the Real Club de Enganches de Andalucía hold a competition to pick the best horse and carriage.
The prizes aren’t significant, no more than a few hundred Euros, but the honour of being awarded the Champion of Champions Trophy at this event far outweighs any other prize on offer at the other provincial Ferías.
Several classes of carriage are judged, starting with single horse carriages, all the way to six horse teams arranged three across. Carriages fall into two and four wheel classes, covered and uncovered, and are usually in immaculate condition. Carriage owners take great pride in the appearance of their carriages, the horses, harnesses, and of course themselves. Click the “continue reading” to see images and video of the horse and carriage show. Continue reading “Las Enganches” Horse and Carriage Show – Goyesca Ronda→
The Plaza de Toros (bullring) in Ronda occupies a very special place in modern Spanish culture and history as the home of the Rondeño style of bullfighting and also of the Real Maestranza De Caballería De Ronda. The bullring was built entirely of stone in the 18th century, during the golden years of Pedro Romero’s reign as champion bullfighter. Continue reading Plaza de Toros (Bullring)→
Spain, and in particular the Costa del Sol, is one of Europe’s most popular holiday destinations, and from Marbella, Puerto Banus, Benalmadena, Torremolinos, Mijas Costa, Fuengirola, San Pedro, Málaga or Estepona Ronda is only a short drive, between 45 minutes and 1hr 15minutes away, and is rated one of THE must-see destinations in Spain.
The Ronda style as it is known originated by accident in Ronda’s Philip II’s Centre for Horsemanship when a gentleman training on horse was unseated in the path of a bull they used to train officers in horsemanship.
A local man, Francisco Romero distracted the bull on foot using his hat, thus securing both the life of the aristocrat, and inventing a new form of bullfighting perfected by his grandson, Pedro Romero (1754-1839).
The Malaga bullring, known by Spaniards as the Plaza de Toros de la Malagueta, sits close to the main beach in Malaga city, giving the entire area its name. The Plaza de Toros can’t be missed as it is visible from Paseo de Reding, the main street connecting Malaga with her eastern villages in the Axarquia.
Built between 1874 and 1876, the structure is hexadecimal (a 16 sided polygon), has a central rueda of 52m, and after the renovations of 2010 can now accommodate 14,000 fans.
The overall design is described as neomudejar, a style that became popular with a revivalist group in the 19th century who considered major buildings should look Andalucian, and was designed by the architect Joaquín Rucoba, and in 1976 was declared an historic monument.
Within the complex there is a museum of bullfighting (museo taurino) named after Antonio Ordoñez, considered to be the greatest Spanish bullfighter of the 20th century and who was born in Ronda, one of the smaller cities of Malaga province. The museum has attracted a reputation for being one of the better organised displays with entrance to the rueda and animal enclosures included. A number of matador costumes, swords, pikes, bulls heads make this a gory yet fascinating tour.
Every year during the Malaga August Feria the best of the best of Spain’s bullfighters perform to the delight of revellers, with tickets often being more valuable than a month’s wages. As a 1st class plaza, the event places la Malagueta in the same league as that of Sevilla and Madrid.
The Plaza de Toros in Antequera is still one of the often used bullrings in Andalucia, where the art of the taurina hasn’t lost its legal right as in communities such as Catalonia. Within the Malaga province, the plaza de toros in Antequera continues to host corridas several times per year.
The bullring itself is often ignored by visitors to Andalucia due to its lack of fame, however this is a mistake for anyone with a genuine interest in architecture or the art of bullfighting. In fact the Plaza de Toros in Antequera is a very attractive building, and is surrounded by beautiful parklands close to the centre of the city.
Architecturally, Antequera’s bullring is built using locally manufactured bricks, with a facade of white painted walls, and post-independence lintels above the doors. Inside, the rueda isn’t large, though the yellow sand is always immaculately smoothed out.
Dating from 1848, the structure was rebuilt in 1984, in a style that reflects the city’s diverse architectural influences, and is considered one of the most attractive bullrings in Spain. The Plaza de Toros in Antequera is a prime example of a classic bull ring. It has a seating capacity of 8,200 people.
There is an excellent museum of bullfighting within the structure under the seats, which dare we say it, is often considered better than the RMR museum in Ronda. Numerous momentoes from former heroes of the art are on display, including a bronze statue by Sánchez Panadero and Clemente entitled ‘El Tiro de Mulillas’ (Mules dragging out a bull).
“¡Abolición!” shouted the banners and placards. Abolition! Adorned with drawings of youths on all fours with barbs in their backs spurting blood they were held aloft by about thirty protesters on the Tajo Bridge in Ronda, fifty kilometres from Marbella in eastern Spain.
“Abolish the Bullfight”, they cried with Ronda’s most important fight of the year beginning in a few hours. The protesters, mostly young Spaniards, were watched by a squad of Riot Police and bemused passers by.
‘Is the bullfight dying?” I asked Paco, a regular in the Bar Maestro, a small place, serving some of the best tapas in town. Named after Antonio Ordóñez, a native son, and many say, the greatest matador ever, his loyal admirers foregathered there with other aficionados of the bulls.
‘No, the bullfight is not dying,’ said Paco banging down his glass on the counter. ‘You cannot get a ticket for the corrida this afternoon, did you know that?’ Paco glared at me and muttered under his breath. I was mortified. How could I re-establish my bona fides with this much respected man?
‘I was fortunate to see el Maestro fighting five times in the 60’s,’ I said. He looked sideways at me. Other heads nodded, voices approved. But Paco raised his glass to some memory of is own.
‘Read “Vanguardia’s” report,’ one called Pepe said quietly, ‘72% of Spaniards has no interest.’
The figures were dramatic. Over the past thirty years interest in the bullfight has fallen from a high of 55% in 1971 to 46% in 1980 to today’s figure of 28%.
Then Rafa, the owner, made a joke which I think went like this: ‘What do the bulls in Pamplona pray for before the Running?’
‘Please Lord, let me catch a gringo.’ Even Paco laughed at that. Paqui, Rafa’s wife brought out small dishes of paella. Good humour, never far away, was restored. I was honoured to be included by these aficionados.
“Death in the Afternoon”, Hemingway’s classic on the bullfight, introduced many of us to it. This ritual of danger and death, bull running or fighting is central to most annual ferias in towns, villages and cities throughout Spain. Pamplona in July, Ronda in September and Seville at Easter are the most popular.
This year in Ronda the annual September shindig was in full exuberant swing, the town in an uproar. Crowds milled about; flamenco and the whirling, laughing music of the Sevillana dance blared from temporary and ear-splitting loudspeakers outside the bars. Girls and women of all ages twirled, arms twisting sensuously, fingers coiling, heads thrown back, in dramatic pose. Men and boys clapped the rhythm, shouting ‘¡Olés!’.
Ronda, the birth place of the modern bullfight, celebrates the Goyescas, a festival of bullfighting so called as the participants parade in the garb of Goya’s era two centuries ago. Horse drawn carriages with decorous young girls in colourful finery, process through the streets. Men and youths in the Andalusian style of tight trousers, waistcoats and Córdoba hats stalk about on tall horses before the fights begin.
About the bullfight, V.S.Pritchett, in “The Spanish Temper” wrote: “The Spaniard never lacks the courage to make the heroic gesture. The bull is admired, almost worshipped, as the horse is in Ireland. He is admired because he is great and capable of fury, and the Spaniard requires that furious force against which to display his singularity – the most precious of his possessions – and his courage. Always the extremist, he likes to test his valour and his whole personality to the utmost.”
‘The bullfight is not a sport,’ said our friend Bosco back in the bar, ‘because the outcome is foreseen. It is a ritual,’ he added, believers eyes shining. ‘Primitive, pagan, maybe barbaric. ‘But,’ he concluded, ‘At no stage in the fight is it the object to inflict pain, although it is inflicted.’
Like reading Macbeth before going to the theatre, an understanding of the bullfight beforehand enables one to comprehend if not approve. Sadly many of them descend into a crude despatch of the animal, the bullfighter being booed by the crowd. But if one experiences, as I did, the gut wrenching, frightening emotion of a great matador’s performance, as Ordóñez delivered to spellbound audiences it will remain etched in one’s mind forever.
It costs over €100 000 to stage a corrida with a top matador’s name. They command huge fees and have expensive lifestyles. Cayetano Rivera Ordóñez, the Maestro’s grandson, appeared this year in a Suit of Lights, as their costume is called, made by Armani. A whiff of decadence, a foretaste of the fall?
The rivals for the public’s Euros are football and basketball. Spain are the current European Champions in both sports. Tennis and golf have attractive role models also.
Nobody in the bar had been prepared to challenge Paco. But the newspaper’s figures would not leave us. None of us was under fifty-five. And so it is throughout Spain. The corrida is dying with its ageing followers. No doubt in the midst of the recession, they were thinking of the over 100,000 people employed in the industry and the turnover of 1, 5 billion Euros a year.
Despite the two thousand year old tradition going back to Roman times, leading opponents of bullfighting recently took their cause to the Spanish parliament demanding an end to it. Parliament is currently debating a draft law on animal rights. How bullfighting will escape such a charter I do not know. The League Against Cruel Sports is increasingly active. The Spanish public broadcaster, TVE, announced that it will no longer broadcast corridas. Two years ago, Barcelona declared itself an “anti- bullfighting city”. The closure of the last bullring in Catalonia highlights its political ‘independence from Madrid’.
However, in Madrid and the southern province of Andalusia the plazas are often filled to capacity. Bull fighting is deeply rooted in Andalusia. Like everything else the Andalusians do they do it with passion. It’s as though they had the caps lock key permanently in the ‘on’ position, the stereo at its loudest. It is in this intense, emphatic and above all passionate atmosphere that los toros, the bullfights, persist, its great exponents revered.
But the inevitable is coming. There will be more protesters. Just as Picasso and Hemmingway supported the bullfight, new names will support the Abolitionists.
My wife, Verne, unsympathetic to the corrida, asked the inevitable question. ‘12,000 bulls a year die in 2000 corridas?’ I replied. ‘And as many as 100 men are killed.’ Her silence said it all. ‘But,’ I said, ‘expect marketing innovations. 100,000 jobs will be defended.’
I see in my mind’s eye a dusty road in Spain trodden by a gaunt figure in rusty armour on a spindly steed followed by a podgy fellow astride a donkey. One almost sees the white sails of windmills that will surely attract the attention of that wandering knight. For it is none other than my demented hero, Don Quixote de la Mancha and Sancho Panza. Is it the youngsters on the bridge who are tilting at windmills in the battle of the bulls? Or Paco in the Bar Maestro?
Article written by Bearnard O’Riain, a published author who has written an autobiography ‘Running to Stand Still‘, an account of his years as an angry and abusive husband. These days Bearnard runs the MURAL support group which helps other men recover from abusing their spouses and families in Johannesburg’s northern suburbs, including the infamous Alexandra township.
Information – Hotel booking – Activities – Events in Ronda and Surrounding Villages